Domaine Vrignaud                                                      

“Whilst Chablis is viticulturally perceived as being part of Burgundy, perhaps because of the omnipresent Chardonnay, it is geologically quite discrete, having more in common with southern Champagne, the Sancerrois and the Anjou-Touraine region. It sits on the “rim” of the Paris basin, a uniform band of thin Kimmeridgian chalky marl containing many lenses of sea shells and topped by hard Portlandian limestone. What constitutes the true terroir of Chablis is a contentious issue, but it would be safe to say that most of the best sites are found on exposed areas of Kimmeridgian limestone.

It is on such sites that the Vrignaud family have been quietly growing grapes for five generations, although it is only in the past 15 years that they have been bottling wine under their own label. They started with 3,500 bottles back in 1991 and are now selling around half of their production under their own label, the other half going to négociants. They are a quality conscious family with an absolute belief in the importance of the work in the vineyards and the respect of nature. To this end they use no insecticides or fertilizers, they have brought into play pheromones to confuse potential pests and encourage the development of typhlodromes, small beneficial spiders which prey on their much larger red and yellow cousins.

For the past three years grass cover has also been a priority. This allows them to limit the use of weed-killers, prevents soil erosion (a major problem on the steeper slopes), encourages decompaction of the soil, promotes microbiological life and creates competition for the vines, which in turn lowers yields. Yield restriction is also helped by debudding in the Spring and green harvesting if necessary.

Situated to the north of Chablis in the tiny commune of Fontenay-Près-Chablis (population 150 inhabitants), in 1999 they built themselves a new high-tech cellar in the centre of the village. As they wanted the pure, mineral character of the terroir to show through in the wines, there are no barrels here, but rather a battery of stainless steel tanks, each equipped with its own temperature control system. To reinforce the mineral character of the appellation and to aid their longevity, the wines are aged in tank on their fine lees for up to 20 months before bottling.”